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Saturday, October 20, 2012

Kampong Glam, where hip eateries reside

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http://www.soshiok.com/article/21063

Long before the likes of Tiong Bahru and Keong Saik became to-go places for the seen and be seen, Haji Lane was already the cool kid on the block with a gritty, bohemian appeal. It's started since Blu Jaz Café opened almost a decade ago, but more hip joints are now sprouting up beyond the indie epicentre of Haji Lane.

Recently opened restaurant Symmetry on Jalan Kubor is but one example. Haji Lane and its incessant bustle may seem like a better choice, but chef and co-founder Abby Lim prefers the lack of "crazy traffic" at her space, she says. "If you're good there's no way we can't make it," she continues, undeterred.

If anything, the adjacent streets retain more of an authentic Malay heritage without losing the madding crowd. Bussorah Street for instance has many "nasi padang joints which draws all sorts of people by day", says Chris Koh, co-owner of new café Ogopogo which is located precisely near that sweet spot. Prominent neighbours such as Keith Png of high-end boutique Hide & Seek echo that sentiment, stressing fewer distractions as a plus point.

Yet another hot zone is Kandahar Street, where you can find sleek F&B and retail lifestyle concept Maison Ikkoku. The newly-renovated Malay Heritage Centre (re-opened in September) lies just across the lane, which means green lawns and an airier atmosphere.

"Having cocktails on the roof of Maison Ikkoku really sums up the experience," says Ogopogo's Mr Koh. "You look down on an area full of Malay heritage, there's Bugis in the background, and the city lies in the distance."

More pioneers look set to push the frontiers of indie culture at Kampong Glam: newly-renovated shophouses with chic exteriors are popping up around the side lanes of Victoria Street, with yet another refurbished row along Jalan Sultan.

Rent is also relatively more affordable in spaces further away from Haji Lane and there's room for social enterprise: art gallery Artistry for instance aims to avoid commercial names, and can afford to support emerging artists instead, says co-founder Prashant Somosundram.

However, Kampong Glam has to retain a good mix of old and new to keep its appeal, says Ms Karen Tan of Japanese bento place Box n Sticks. While it's in no danger of becoming "sleepy like Tiong Bahru", she is wary that it may become "like Chinatown which is very artificial and touristy with 'I love Singapore' t-shirts selling all over the place".

In fact, some like boutique hotel The Sultan have been the target of caustic remarks. "We had an almost bitter post on our Facebook page saying we haven't accorded much recognition to the previous architects and owners of the Kampong Glam area," says vice CEO Charmaine Ong.

It's particularly ironic given that The Sultan is one of five projects awarded the URA Architectural Heritage Awards just earlier this month. "We spent so much time just purchasing all the units along this lot to do something special and with some weight in the Kampong Glam area," Ms Ong continues.

"There's not a lot of preservation going on with the gentrification, and we wanted to be part of the conservation efforts."

It's thus important for newer businesses to be discreet and sensitive, adds Artistry's Mr Somosundram. "Attracting a new crowd is not necessarily a bad thing", he continues. "The space should not become a museum; that is not sustainable. Instead, we need to be constantly in conversation to develop as a community."

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